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Installing Your Hardwood Floor

Owner / Installer Responsibility

Hardwood flooring is a beautiful and unique product of nature, and characterized by distinctive variations in grain and color. These natural variations in color and grain are not flaws, but are a part of the natural beauty and uniqueness of hardwood flooring. (These inherent variations should be expected and serve to enhance the natural beauty and enduring charm.) The imperfections may be of a manufacturing or natural type. (Remember: No two hardwood floors are alike.) TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Floors are manufactured in accordance with the accepted industry standards.

It should also be realized that wood is a natural product that contains color variations, grains and characteristics, which are normal for all wood material. Color changes and variations will also occur when hardwood flooring is exposed to light. Changes related to color and intensity are inherent and occur with all natural wood products. Areas subject to variances in exposure to light will blend in color and intensity after being exposed to light as when moving an existing rug or furniture.

The installer and customer assumes all responsibility for full inspection of product before installation. Carefully examine the flooring for color, finish and quality before installing it. Use reasonable selectivity and cull out or cut off pieces with glaring imperfections. If material is not acceptable, contact your Home Depot store immediately.

Before beginning the installation of any hardwood flooring product, the installer must determine that the environment of the job site and the condition and type of the subfloor involved is acceptable, ensuring that it meets or exceeds all requirements specified in the TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Flooring installation instructions which follow.

Hardwood flooring is a product of nature and is susceptible to damage when exposed to extreme changes in temperature or relative humidity. If environmental conditions and installation instructions listed below are not correctly applied, engineered hardwood flooring can suffer irreversible damage.

THE HOME DEPOT does not accept any responsibility for job failure resulting from or associated with inappropriate or improperly prepared subfloors or improper job site environmental conditions.

The use of stain, filler or putty stick for the correction of imperfections during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.

When TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Flooring is ordered, a waste factor between 5 - 10%, depending on layout, must be added to the actual number of square feet needed. (Diagonal Installations may require more.)

Job Site Inspection & Acclimation

The installation site should have consistent room temperature of 60º - 78º F and a constant relative humidity level of 35% - 65% for a minimum of 5 days prior to acclimation and installation of any TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Flooring product.

In new construction, TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Flooring should be one of the last items installed. All work involving water or moisture (plumbing, plaster or drywall ceilings or wall finishes, painting, etc.) should be finished with ample time allowed for complete drying prior to wood flooring being installed. Heating and air systems should be fully operational and maintain a consistent room temperature of 60-78º F and a constant relative humidity range of 35%-65% for at least 5 full days before wood is brought onsite for acclimation.

Concrete subfloors should be cured and at least 60 to 90 days old. Check basements and under floor crawl space to be sure that they are dry and well ventilated to avoid damage caused by moisture. TrafficMASTER™ recommends that at least a 6 mil vapor barrier should be placed over the entire surface of the ground in crawl spaces not finished with cement.

Flooring should not be delivered until the above guidelines are completed. After all the above guidelines are met, flooring should acclimate at the job site at least 48 hours prior to installation. Do not open cartons until ready to install.

Handle TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Flooring with care. Do not stand on ends or sides. Store flooring flat with proper support on the ends and center sections in a dry place being sure to provide at least a four-inch air space under and around cartons. Stack the cartons 3-4 high to insure efficient acclimation.

Do not store directly upon on grade concrete or next to outside walls. Cartons should be placed as close to the center of the installation area as possible, away from exterior walls, windows, and doors. Keep out of direct sunlight and away from air vents.

Required Tools and Accessories

• Hand Saw or Electric Saw (Carbide Tip Blade Recommend)
• Carpenter’s Square
• Utility Knife
• Tapping Block
• Spacers
• Safety Equipment (Goggles & Mask)
• Tape Measure
• Soft Rubber Mallet
• Broom
• Hammer
• Pull Bar

Subfloor Preparation

Approved Subfloor Types

• APA approved exterior grade plywood with a minimum thickness of 5/8” (3/4” or thicker recommended), on 2”x10” floor joists spaced 16” on center. NOTE: When installing and fastening approved plywood, please refer to specific structural panel manufacturer’s instructions.
• 3/4” (23/32”) OSB on 2”x10” floor joists spaced 16” on center, properly nailed. When installing hardwood over engineered joists and truss systems that are spaced wider than 16” on center, it may be necessary to add an additional layer of subflooring or use additional cross bracing to stiffen the system, reducing excessive deflection.
• Concrete slab - TrafficMASTER™ Engineered Hardwood Flooring Products can be installed on all grade levels. Concrete slabs must be clean and dry – less than 3 lbs. /1000 sf. / 24 hr. moisture vapor transmission.
• Existing Hardwood wood floors (installed at proper angle over existing wood subfloors).
• Resilient tile and sheet vinyl that has been installed over an approved subfloor as listed above.

Subfloor must be:

• CLEAN - Scraped or sanded, swept, and free of wax, grease, paint, oil and other debris
• SMOOTH/FLAT - Within 1/8” in a 6’ span. Sand or grind high areas or fill low areas with cement-based leveling compound with no less than 3000 psi rating.
• STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw down any loose areas that squeak or reveal movement. Replace any damaged subfloor material.
• DRY - Moisture content of wood subfloor must not exceed 10% prior to installation of wood flooring.

Wood Substrates:

Wood substrates must be sound, clean, level with a moisture content not to exceed 10% or read more than a 5% difference than moisture content of products being installed.

Concrete Slabs:

All concrete subfloors must be tested for moisture content prior to installation of the hardwood flooring The moisture content of the concrete subfloor must register dry (Less than 2.5%), according to whichever test method is used to determine the slab condition. Note: Pre-existing wood panels or strips must be removed from the concrete slab before installing new hardwood. Use the method below to determine whether moisture is present in the concrete subfloor:

1. Perform a polyfilm mat test. Tape down 3’ x 3’ polyfilm squares in several places on the floor (one every 200 sf.).
2. Wait 24-48 hours, remove and check for the appearance of condensation or a darkening of the concrete slab.
3. Either occurrence signals the likely presence of excess moisture, in which case corrective measures must be performed by a qualified flooring professional.
4. Also check all site drainage to make sure all exterior water flows are directed away from the job site.

Floating Floor Installation Method

Approved Subfloor Types

All TrafficMASTER™ Engineered Hardwood Flooring products which have been approved for a floating installation method can be installed over any dry, level, sound subfloor, regardless of installation grade or subfloor type. All subfloors should be covered with a Home Depot approved “3 in 1” or “2 in 1” Underlayment, or an approved foam underlayment. When using a basic foam underlayment over a concrete subfloor, you must also use a 6 or 8 mil. polyethylene film under the foam pad, which acts as a vapor barrier.

Note: Any pre-existing wood panels or strips that are floating or glued directly to the concrete slab must be removed before installing TrafficMASTER™ Engineered Hardwood Flooring using the floating method.

Always check the slab for excessive moisture to ensure that the slab is suitable for hardwood installation (See Concrete Slabs).

Radiant Heat Subfloors:

When installing over radiant heat systems, follow the below requirements.

1. The maximum temperature of subfloor under normal use should not exceed 78º F. (Check with heat system manufacturer).
2. For correct water temperature inside heating pipes, check with manufacturer’s suggested guidelines.
3. Heating pipes must be covered with 1 1/4” of concrete or be located a minimum 1/8” below bottom of plywood subfloor. In addition, for plywood subfloor, heat transfer plates or insulation boards must be between pipes and subfloor.
4. On new radiant heat installations, heat system must be operated at normal living temperature for a minimum of 28 days before installation of hardwood flooring. Two days before flooring is delivered for acclimation before installation, switch heating unit off. During the installation, the subfloor must remain 64º - 68º F. On existing radiant heat systems, the system must be pressure checked and must have been in operation of a minimum of 5 days.NOTE: Reverse the steps of the above procedure to decrease temperature when shutting heat off for the season.
5. Room temperature should not vary more than 15º F from season to season. Relative humidity should remain 35% - 65% in home for radiant heated floor installations.
6. Only use a floating installation method on radiant heat subfloors.

Jobsite Preparation

• Undercut door casings.
• Remove any existing wall base, shoe molding, quarter round, doorway threshold or other trim and molding.
• Important: Do not install cabinets or walls on top of the flooring when using the floating installation method.

Step 1: Installing the First Rows

Important: The flooring should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure a proper mix of color, grain, and shade.

1. Before starting, measure the width of the room, and divide the room’s width by the width of the plank. If this means that the last row of planks will be narrower than 2”, you will need to cut the first and last row of planks to be installed in such a way that both rows of planks will have the same approximate width for an overall continuous look. See Step 3: Installing the Last Row.
   Note: To cut the boards, always saw with the saw teeth cutting down into the face or top of the board. Cutting from the top down helps protect the surface. Use a carbide tip blade to ensure smooth cuts.
2. Always install TrafficMASTER™ Hardwood Flooring with the tongue side of the plank facing the wall. Begin the installation at the corner of the room so that the two tongues can be placed against the walls to form a corner. Be sure to leave an expansion gap of approximately ½” using ½” spacers. If the starting wall is not straight, it may be necessary to scribe the first row to match the wall, allowing the opposite side of the row to present a true square base for the rest of the floor. Place a board on the floor to start the first row with the tongue on end and side facing the wall. Insert the tongue of the second board into the groove of the first board at a 30 degree angle and rotate the angled board down to floor level firmly locking the joint to form an aligned first row.
   
   Once the installation of the first row is complete, there will be an extra piece from the last panel which, if big enough, due to the aesthetic criteria, will be the first panel for the next row. In order to install this piece you must place its tongue in the groove of the previous row at an approximate 30º angle into the groove of the first row. Always engage the end joint before locking the longer side joint.
   
   Continue this method for the other pieces in the row, then use a hammer and tapping block to gently but firmly push the second row’s tongue into the groove of the first row.
   
   With the Uniclic® system, where it is impossible to angle and click the pieces under, for example, a doorframe, horizontal assembly will be required. In order to do so, a hammer and tapping blocks will be necessary. Use the hammer to carefully tap until the locking mechanism is fully in place.
3. Using the proper spacers, provide a gap for the seasonal expansion of the flooring along the walls of the entire room. Always place expansion spacers against the wall every 2’-3’. Also place spacers at the end of each row to ensure proper locking of planks.
   Note: Larger rooms require additional expansion space. Add 1/16” to the width of the expansion space for every 3’ the room extends beyond 25’. Rooms exceeding 40’ in either length or width require the use of a T-Molding for expansion.
4. Once the first three rows are complete, you will have a straight, even base established.

Step 2: Installing the Rest of the Floor

Note: Always stagger approximately 12” to 24” between end joints of adjacent board rows. The end joints should not repeat visually across the installed floor. The staggered end joints should be random across the room. Never use a repeating pattern.

Step 3: Installing the Last Row

In all cases, it may be necessary to cut lengthwise in the last row. In order to do so, place the last board over the next-to-last row, marking the exact cut and taking into account the 1/2“ gap with regard to the wall.

Once the process is completed, remove the wedges and proceed to install the base boards and profiles, which will cover the expansion gap without obstructing it. Surfaces installed above 796 ft² may require additional expansion joints. Thus, when the Engineered Hardwood Flooring is installed in several rooms, surfaces will be separated at the doorframes or arches using appropriate transition profiles. Expansion gaps must not be filled under any circumstances.

Special Circumstances

• Doorways: Attempting to continue installing rows through a doorway into another room can be difficult because the narrow opening is a very small base upon which to continue consistent, even rows into the next room. T-moldings are available to install in doorways when joining flooring room to room. When using the Floating installation method, every doorway less than 6’ wide may need to be transitioned using a T-molding. Floating, flow-through installs are allowed only if the total length of the flow-through does not exceed 40’ and the flow through doorway is 6’ or wider.
  
  To correctly align plank rows from room to room, it is best to use a master reference line that runs through the doorway to the far ends of each room involved. Position the line so that it is perpendicular from the corresponding wall and parallel to the side walls. Use this line to align the plank rows from room to room.
• Pipes, vents and other fixed objects: Each instance of these items can be unique, but the general rule is to measure very carefully before you cut and remember to leave a 1/2” expansion gap between the object and the flooring. You will cover the expansion gaps with molding, vent covers or pipe rings when the floor is complete.
• Installation on Stairs: Working from the top step down, flooring should be installed using a premium grade wood flooring adhesive and screw type fasteners or nails. All stair nose moldings must be glued and nailed / screwed every 8”, as a safety precaution.